Review: Sony a6000

Image Quality

Color and Dynamic Range

Ohio Statehouse - Sony a6000 with Sigma 19mm f/2.8 DN Art (click to enlarge)
Ohio Statehouse – Sony a6000 with Sigma 19mm f/2.8 DN Art (click to enlarge)

The Sony a6000 features a brand new 24 megapixel APS-C sized sensor, and as you’d expect from a current high-resolution sensor, the image quality from the camera is on a very high level.  The dynamic range captured by the a6000 is outstanding.  Even in harsh lighting, it is usually quite easy to recover all the highlight and shadow detail you’d need for quality images.  The tonal rolloff is quite nice as well, and when presented with a vibrant scene, it’s possible to extract simply gorgeous tones out of the RAW files.

Color is somewhat muted in the RAW files right out of camera, especially the greens and blues, but these can be adjusted to taste very easily.  The final result of the excellent dynamic range and very nice color response is a camera that can produce very rich images.

One downside is that Sony appears to utilize some compression even in the RAW files.  As a result, if you push the files hard by making large exposure adjustments, pushing shadows or strongly enhancing local contrast, the images start to fall apart a little earlier than some other recent cameras I’ve shot with.  Artifacts and even a little banding at base ISO can be induced if you really punish the files, which is somewhat surprising.  Still, for the vast majority of shooting, this won’t be an issue, but it is something to be careful of if you tend to really push the files to their limit in the digital darkroom.

Detail and Noise

Baby Drummer - Sony a6000 with Sigma 60mm f/2.8 DN Art @ ISO 12,800
Baby Drummer – Sony a6000 with Sigma 60mm f/2.8 DN Art @ ISO 12,800

The first thing you’ll notice about the a6000 if you are using high quality lenses is that the camera is capable of resolving an incredible amount of detail.  The sensor has an anti-aliasing filter, but it appears to be quite weak.  Per-pixel sharpness is excellent, and the camera holds detail at base ISO through about ISO 1600.  Beyond that, detail suffers a little, but the camera still holds on to good levels of detail even at most of the higher ISOs, though noise does obscure the finest details at the upper end of the sensitivity range.

Speaking of noise, the a6000 delivers very clean files at base ISO, though once you go above that, a very fine noise is visible in blocks of solid color if you zoom to 100%.  However, this fine noise will be ultimately invisible in a print or web shared image up to around ISO 1600.  Images at ISO 1600 are quite usable and the extra resolution means that final output will still be very good at this ISO.  ISO 3200 starts to show quite a bit of noise at 100% and it’ll seep into prints a bit too, though I still view ISO 3200 as a perfectly usable setting.  Noise starts to dramatically increase beyond 3200.  ISO 6400 and even 12,800 can be used for web use and small prints due to the relatively high detail , but ISO 25,600 pushes this just too far, with all fine detail obliterated. It’s worth noting that at the higher ISOs, nailing exposure is critical, as the shadow noise can increase dramatically at the high-end of the ISO range.

While the pixel level noise on the a6000 is nothing special in today’s market, the combination of high detail with good noise performance means the a6000 is very capable in low light for an APS-C camera. While I don’t think it’s the current top of the heap in that department, I have little reservations of shooting with the a6000 in lower light.

JPEG Quality

While I shoot almost exclusively in RAW, I have sampled the JPEG production of the a6000 over the course of the last few weeks, and I am happy to report that Sony has made great strides in the past few months in the quality of the JPEG output. When I reviewed the Sony A7 in December of 2013, I lauded the amazing RAW image quality, but was sorely disappointed by absolutely terrible JPEGs.  The a6000, thankfully, doesn’t share the A7’s awful JPEG engine.  JPEGs out of camera have good color and contrast and the automatic dynamic range optimizer does a good job of packing in some nice dynamic range.   The biggest improvement is at higher ISOs, where the a6000 produces rather pleasing high ISO JPEGs.  While I still find the noise reduction to be a bit heavy-handed, the images ultimately come out in a manner that will allow for decent prints.

Movies

As I mentioned in my opening disclaimer, I am not a videographer, and I don’t feel qualified to provide detailed analysis on the video quality of a camera, though I will certainly give my impressions.  The a6000 has all the video features the average shooter will want, with 1080p production at both 24 and 30 fps.  You can shoot in manual, aperture priority, shutter priority or program mode, and auto ISO will work in conjunction with exposure compensation, giving you some extra exposure power.  I typically shoot in aperture priority, which is quite powerful for most shooting.  The camera will automatically choose a shutter speed that is double the frame rate, as you’d desire, while allowing you to choose (and change on the fly) the aperture.  Setting ISO to Auto allows you to keep the desired shutter speed, while maintaining aperture and still adjust exposure by means of on-the-fly ISO adjustment.  That’s pretty nice.  Focus is limited to continuous or manual in video mode, and I’m not quite sure why, but focusing works well while recording videos.

Quality seemed very good to my eye, with low compression and nice fluid motion, though as I said, I am not the one you want to speak to about critical video quality analysis.

Continue: Conclusion and Image Samples

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Comments

31 responses to “Review: Sony a6000”

  1. HF Avatar
    HF

    Very nice review.
    How do you rate this camera when compared to the X-E2 or X-T1?

    1. Jordan Steele Avatar

      It’s hard to say. The a6000 for the most part has feature parity with the X-T1, excepting the intervalometer..but you can pay for that…plus a higher burst rate and a wider PDAF area. In some cases it’s superior, in others it’s not. The X-T1’s viewfinder is notably better (though the a6000’s is a bit better than the one in the X-E2), and both Fuji cameras are built better…the X-T1 notably so. While I enjoy shooting the a6000, I do prefer the control scheme on the Fujis more. The X-T1 feels like a pro grade camera, and the a6000 feels like a mid range (but performs like a pro-grade).

      The a6000 is definitely the better bargain, but I still prefer my X-T1 overall, primarily because of the amazing EVF and especially the quality and direct controls, which I prefer to any camera I’ve ever owned. I’ve shot a lot with my a6000 over the past several weeks, though, and it’s a wonderful small camera with an amazing feature set.

      Image quality wise, the a6000 has more detail and when shooting landscapes with foliage at a distance, can resolve green detail better. At high ISO, the Fuji cameras are cleaner (even when accounting for ISO fudging), though the a6000 retains more detail at similar sensitivity (along with more noise). The Fuji files do hold up to punishment better, as the RAWs are completely uncompressed…shadow noise when pushing the shadows at low ISO is notably better as well. DR seems very similar between the two, and color and contrast rolloff is different, but it’s hard to say which is ‘better’. The Fuji produces images with more punch right out of the camera, but the Sony images produce more pleasing natural tones in many cases.

      If choosing between the two when starting a new system, I think the lenses hold more sway, and there, Fuji has the upper hand when it comes to enthusiast/pro level lenses….the Fuji glass is exceptional, and they have a very wide array of fast high end gear, while the Sony APS-C lineup is more consumer oriented. While there are some excellent Sony lenses (and the Sigma trinity is outstanding), overall, the Fuji lens lineup is better. Right now I use my Fuji kit as my main kit, and the a6000 + a few lenses as my ‘small’ kit. (The a6000+ the 3 Sigma Art primes is very tiny and VERY high quality.)

  2. aza Avatar
    aza

    thank you for your good review.
    How about focus speed when you use sigma 60 compare with sony lens?

    1. Jordan Steele Avatar

      The Sigma 60 focuses quite quickly. No major difference between it and my 18-105mm f/4, though there may be a slight edge to the Sony lens there. However, the Sigma 60 doesn’t appear to use PDAF for tracking, so in continuous AF it’s no question that the Sony lenses will do better there. My Sigma 60mm review will be coming in the next week. (Hint, it’s an incredible lens).

      1. aza Avatar
        aza

        Thank you for your information. and waiting for your review sigma 60mm

  3. Peter Avatar

    Thanks so much for this review. I have enjoyed all of your reviews. I have the NEX6 but mostly shoot the E-M1 because of the superb set of lenses I have for it. I have enjoyed the image quality of the Sigma 60 (90mm equiv) on the NEX and actually feel it is sharper than the Olympus 45mm (also 90mm equiv)… but wouldn’t stake my live on it just yet 🙂

    Thanks for the review on the EVF on the 6000. My problem on the NEX6 is 1) the darks are blocked up and 2) with glasses I can’t see into the corners which is especially problematic because I always use the live histogram and the right side of the histogram is in the bottom right corner. Grrr.

    And finally, since I am always searching for good lenses for the NEX6, I have read your review of the 18-105. How does this lens stack up on the newer a6000? I can’t remember whether your review used the NEX7 or the lower pixel NEX6.

    THanks!

    1. Jordan Steele Avatar

      The 18-105 is about as good on the a6000 as it is on the NEX-6. You get a tiny bit more resolution out of it due to the higher sampling, but overall it’s, again, a competent lens, but not an outstanding lens. The NEX-6 was used for that review, but the conclusions are valid on a 24MP sensor as well.

  4. […] 28-70mm and 24-70mm test at Photojottings. Full review of the Sony a6000 is up on Admiring Light. A6000 review at BestMat. Japanese SAL50F14 test at Ascii. Sony Zeiss 24-70mm f4 FE OSS Review at […]

  5. Mark Avatar
    Mark

    I would like to know if you are an iPhone or Android user, as the experience with PlayMemories app is VERY different. Everything works very well on Android, on iphone, the experience can be very flakey. Some iOS versions work better than others. On Android, anything Android 2.3 on works without issues.

    Also it’s worth mentioning that you can connect the camera to your PC and download the apps from your browser, you don’t have to navigate the PlayMemories app store on the camera itself. This is my preferred way of doing things. it’s so much easier. It’s also worth mentioning that there are plenty of decent free apps there, and any apps you want to buy, if you don’t like using creditcards, you can buy pre-paid cards to use (both this and Playstation Network use the same “SEN” card, so a PSN-prepaid card will work just fine to buy camera apps.

    1. Jordan Steele Avatar

      I’m an iPhone user. The app as a whole works pretty well except for the odd ‘exit then go back in’ behavior much of the time, but that does it when it thinks too much.

  6. pbass wil Avatar

    Good review and even better sample shots!

    One thing I’d add to your “Cons” (Pros & Cons): Sony’s got a ways to go to catch up on the breadth of lenses — at least half-way attainable non-Zeiss ones.

    I’m currently on Olympus, and own every single focal length of lens I want, none costing over $1000 (most much less), and all are _excellent_ and of either quite fast or very fast aperture.

    They’re getting better for this APS-C E line, but I’d still like to see a more complete selection of native fast AF primes that don’t cost a kidney or a first born child.

    1. Jordan Steele Avatar

      I agree on the E-Mount line, though the line has expanded enough that there are good choices for the most part (though still a distinct lack of native fast glass), but this isn’t a system review, but a camera review.

  7. Dino Avatar
    Dino

    I primarily shoot in manual mode. Do you find it easy to adjust the exposure triangle with the available buttons/dials? Or do you have to do a bit of menu digging to say adjust ISO in M mode.

    1. Jordan Steele Avatar

      No menu digging necessary. If the rear wheel is active all the time, you have aperture on the top and shutter speed on the rear wheel (you can switch these if you choose). ISO is accessed by pressing right on the 4-way then adjusting with the rear wheel. (or whatever button you set ISO to…it’s the right direction by default). It’s not as easy as with a camera with dedicated dials, but it’s not bad.

      1. Dino Avatar
        Dino

        Thank you for the prompt response. That is great to know. It just might be my future purchase

  8. Aubrey Avatar
    Aubrey

    I really enjoyed your review, but I would like to know if you believe the a6000 is worth upgrading from the NEX-6? I would also like to know what are the best lenses for the NEX or a6000 cameras.

  9. Tony Avatar

    Firstly, my congratulations on a truly excellent review of the A6000; certainly the best I have read.

    I am wanting to change from Nikon D700 + heavy lenses to a lighter system with improved resolution. I am torn between Fuji and Sony and your comparison between the XT-1 and the A6000 are most helpful. (If only I could combine the best from both…)

    As it is, neither camera/system ticks all the boxes, so the indecision continues.

    I am holding off my decision until the news is available re new cameras/updates from Photokina next month. I would dearly like Fuji to announce improvements to the XT-1, or an X-Pro2, to more closely match what the A6000 offers in critical areas.

    Again, my thanks.

    Tony

  10. phil Avatar
    phil

    hi Jordan,

    Great review with top-notched photos as usual. I am also on the fence when it comes to interchangeable mirrorless so your reviews offer a great deal of info for me to consider and therefore many thanks for that.

    I’ve got a question about Rokinon 12mm f2.0, your photos show amazing quality. What is your thought on it vs Zeiss Touit 12mm f/2.8 or Fuji 14mm f/2.8?

    Thanks
    -Phil

  11. phil Avatar
    phil

    Also, Samyang 10mm F2.8 ED AS NCS CS was just introduced and that makes me even more excited although the price is ~double. Are you going to review that lens too :)? Thanks

  12. […] also looked to expand enthusiast offerings in the APS-C space and did so aggressively with the excellent a6000.  The a6000 packs a huge amount of features and an excellent 24 megapixel sensor into a small and […]

  13. […] angle zoom.  The combination together retails for $3,046.  On the smaller side, I brought the a6000 and the Rokinon 12mm f/2. This is the latest 24 Megapixel APS-C sensor from Sony, along with a very […]

  14. Jim Radford Avatar

    I’m weighing APS-C cameas … A6000 and the 7D2 … quite different, including price, thus a dilemma. Any thoughts? Choice?

  15. Richard Avatar
    Richard

    Similar to HF’s question:

    I’m looking at the Olympus OM-D5-II and the Fuji X-T1, but the Sony 6000 is there in the background as a somewhat cheaper alternative. It looks more plasticky, and the focus got horribly confused in the shop (as the X-T1 but not the Olympus), but it does seem from what is said to be a really good and compact camera body. One of my requirements is “takes less room in the bag than my DSLR”.

    I tend to shoot in available light, so have ended up using fast primes to push the performance of my Nikon D90 to the level required. But a big problem I’ve had with the D90 is the whole “Focus, Compose, Shoot” process and I hope that any replacement camera can help here. Again the OM-D1 seems good as I’ve used it, the Sony good on paper, and all I’ve experienced of the Fuji is that it didn’t perform so well in the shop.

    I do like the ergonomics of the Fuji. I feel the Olympus will take some getting used to.

    So which one? There’ s a huge price difference between them with the a6000 kit now under £500, and the Olympus and Fuji exceeding £1000.

    If the Olympus or Fuji detect multiple faces, can I tell them which one to use? How useful is touch to focus in real life? I guess it means not composing through the viewfinder.

    Thanks
    – Richard

    1. Jordan Steele Avatar

      The face detection for Fuji and Olympus is pretty basic, though it works well for both. It’ll try and hit the close eye if possible, and with Olympus you can specify preference for features.

      If you want fast primes, the Fuji system is amazing with their fast glass. There are some really good fast lenses for m4/3 as well, though they won’t give you as shallow depth of field if you’re into that. Sony has some very good lenses, but nothing faster than f/1.8.

      The a6000 is a really nice camera, though I prefer my X-T1 to it for most things. It’s very subjective, though, and what works for me may not work for another shooter. Perhaps it may be worth renting your top few for a few days at a time with a nice lens and see how they fit you. Sure, it’s not a super cheap outlay to try three systems, but it will probably be worth it to get what works best for you, considering the potential future investment in glass.

  16. Chris Bubolz Avatar
    Chris Bubolz

    Love your reviews. Trying to decide between the A6000 and the GX7. Both can be had for reasonable prices. I’m looking to step up from a Canon G15. I like aspects of both cameras but am having a hard time deciding. I like taking landscape photos and pictures of my 2 1/2 yr old daughter as well as random photos around NYC. Any advice would be appreciated.

    1. Jordan Steele Avatar

      It’s really hard to go wrong. The a6000 will have slightly better image quality, but the lens selection for m4/3 is significantly better. If you’re after action shots of your kids, the a6000 will track motion better than the GX7, though the GX7 will be faster in single shot focusing mode.

  17. Levi Avatar
    Levi

    Which better one is better for landscape? A6000 or XT-10?

    1. Levi Avatar
      Levi

      Which one*

  18. Fastguitars Avatar
    Fastguitars

    Apparently this Sony series has no real Macro option that is worth a discussion.
    Seem to be great for portraits and landscapes, but Macro shooters need not apply.

    1. Jordan Steele Avatar

      I don’t think that’s a fair assessment. There aren’t a lot of APS-C only lenses for this, but there are definitely some high quality options.

      Sony has three lenses that do 1:1 reproduction that are native E-Mount lenses. The decent (but not great) 30mm f/3.5 macro is the worst of the three. The FE 50mm f/2.8 Macro is brand new, reasonably priced and has excellent optics from what I’ve read (I plan on reviewing this lens fairly soon). And finally, the FE 90mm f/2.8 macro (my review here) is absolutely fantastic. Sure, it’ll be big on something like the a6000, but it’ll also give you great working distance and truly outstanding image quality.

      Finally, there’s the Zeiss Touit 50mm f/2.8 Macro (which I reviewed here in Fuji X mount), which is a native e-mount lens as well, and made for APS-C. This lens is fantastic optically, though it costs a fair bit.

      And, if you’re OK with manual focus, you can adapt many wonderful manual focus macro lenses in a wide variety of mounts.

  19. Mike Ross Avatar

    Do you know the base ISO for the A6000? My RX-100 is 125 but I think for the A6000 it might be 200. Thanks

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